“Intellectually, the very idea of ‘organic’ is a mess. It makes health and environmental claims that cannot be backed up; it distinguishes between acceptable and unacceptable pesticides and fertilisers on a crude test of how “natural” they are, rather than on how safe they might be; and it is now making the size of carbon footprint part of the criteria for organics, even though there is no precedent for this and the rules it is proposing make no sense.”